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"HEALTHY RECIPES, FEEDS & FORMULAS FOR CATS, DOGS, BIRDS AND ANIMALS" (By Janice Doe Banks, Center Barnstead, New Hampshire, USA)

Studies have shown that animals are healthier and enjoy their food just as much if it is vegetarian. Vitamins and minerals are very important to your pet's health. Save the water from boiled vegetables or liquid from a crock-pot and mix it with your animal's food for additional nutrients.

"Homemade Pupcakes" (As seen in Woman's Day Magazine 2/15)
 (Makes 4 large treats for dogs 65 lbs. and up, or cut into pieces for smaller dogs).
*For frosting how-tos, go to womansday.com/pupcake you'll also find more healthy treat recipes for your dog.
For special occasions (like the birthday of your pet), whip up this simple treat from "The Healthy Hound Cookbook".
1 cup flour
1 egg 
1 tsp. baking soda
4 Tbsp. melted butter
1/4 cup unsweetened peanut butter
1/4 cup pumpkin puree
1/2 cup water
Heat oven to 350. Spray or grease a large-cup muffin pan with non-stick spray.
In a large bowl, combine all ingredients, mixing thoroughly. Divide mixture among 4 of the pan's cups. Bake for about 30 minutes.

"Yoghurt-Berry Bone Parfait" (As seen in "Family Circle Magazine", 8/15)
*Spoil your dog rotten with this drool-worthy dessert, created by blogger Rosalyn Acer of the Golden Retriever Sugar.  Acero's a master at whipping up treats gentle enough for her pup's sensitive tummy. As a mold, use a 3 1/4-inch bone cookie cutter. Place on a flat surface such as a glass plate. Pour 1 Tbsp. Greek yoghurt into mold. Freeze about 1 hour.
Add 2 tsp. fresh blackberry juice (from about 3 smashed blackberries). Freeze 20-30 minutes. Place little pieces of raspberry over blackberry juice, then pour 1 Tbsp. plain yoghurt on top. Freeze 20 minutes. Place 1 tsp. homemade "Toasted Coconut Honey Oats" on top. Freeze another 10-15 minutes.

"Toasted Coconut Honey Oats"
Mix 1 1/2 Tbsp. coconut oil and 1/4 cup rolled or instant oats. In skillet, toast over medium-high heat 5-7 minutes, until oats are golden brown. Remove from heat and mix in 1 tsp. honey.

"Kiwi-Strawberry Banana Pupsicles" (As seen in "Family Circle" Magazine", 8/15)
Talk about lucky dogs! Tennille Tejeda, author of DoggyDessertChef.com, makes these goodies for her two-shelter adoptee. Your pooch will give them two paws up. (Makes 4 Pupsicles). To create the first layer, add 1 peeled, chopped kiwi and 1/2 cup water to a blender or food processor. Whirl until smooth. Pour about 1 inch of kiwi mixture into the bottom of each of 4 plastic cocktail cups. Place in freezer for an hour or until frozen.
For the second layer, add 1/2 cup strawberries and 1/2 cup water to blender or food processor. Whirl until smooth. Pour about 1 inch of strawberry mixture over first layer.  Place in freezer for an hour or until frozen. For third layer, add 1 banana and 1/2 cup water to blender or food processor. Whirl until smooth. Pour about 1 inch of banana mixture over second layer. Freeze overnight to allow to fully set. When ready to serve, run warm water outside of the cup so the pupsicle slips out.

"3-Ingredient Salmon Cat Treats" (As seen in "Family Circle Magazine", 8/15)
These feline goodies are purrfectin thanks to TheCookieRookie.com's Becky Hardin. When freshly baked ones are in the drawer, Hardin's tabby cat, Dill, will sit nearby and meow for them all day. (Makes 80-100 mini treats). Heat oven to 350. Pulse 10 oz. canned salmon (undrained) in a food processor and chop as finely as possible. In a stand mixer, combine salmon, 1 egg (beaten) and 2 cups whole-wheat flour until dough forms. If dough is too dry, add up to 1/3 cup water. If dough is too wet or sticky, add a bit more flour. Dough should be tacky. Roll out dough on a floured surface until about 1/4 inch thick. Use a 3/4 inch cookie cutter in the shape of your choice to create your treats. Place treats on a parchment-lined baking sheet and bake at 350 for about 20 minutes. When they're slightly browned and crunchy, they're done. Allow cooling before serving. Store in an airtight container for up to 2 weeks.

"Dog Cookies ala Janice Doe Banks" (Makes about 35)

3 1/2 cups whole wheat flour
3 cups rolled oats
1/2 cup powdered milk
1/2 cup olive oil
2 Tbsp. minced garlic
2 tsp. cod-liver oil
2 tsp. bacon-flavoring powder or bits
3 organic eggs
1 1/2 cups vegetable stock
1/4 cup Bragg's apple cider vinegar
1 tsp. each: sea salt, powdered kelp
1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper
1 apple, minced
1 cup shredded cheese (or substitute)
1 tsp. Brewer's yeast
Combine all ingredients to make dough. Drop by Tablespoons onto ungreased cookie sheet. Bake 325, 50 minutes or so. Cool on rack. Store airtight.

"Birdie Cornbread ala Janice Doe Banks"

3 cups yellow cornmeal
2 tsp. baking powder
1/2 cup nut butter
1/2 cup sunflower oil
1 cup minced dried cherries
2 3/4 cups water
Mix all ingredients together. Bake in deep pan, 375, 35 minutes. Reduce heat if it begins to form a hard crust. Put in mesh bags to hang outdoors.

"Fine-Feathered Friend's Favorite Food ala Janice Doe Banks"

3 parts melted fat or sunflower oil
1 part yellow cornmeal or fine-cracked corn
1 part nut butter
1 part sunflower kernels or minced nuts
1 part brown sugar
1 part minced dried fruit (cherries, raisins, prunes, blueberries etc.)
Combine all ingredients with enough water to make it resemble cooked oatmeal.
Cook in double boiler over hot water to blend well. Put in small cans to hang outside.

"Mock Sausage For Folks & Furry Friends ala Janice Doe Banks"
3 cups cooked beans
2/3 cup bread crumbs
3 eggs
2 Tbsp. butter, fat
1/2 tsp. sage, sea salt, garlic pepper
Mix all ingredients. Form into sausages. Roll in crumbs, beaten egg, crumbs again.
Saute 'til browned. Serve at your table or your pet's.

"Wheat Grass Treat For Kitties"
 If you have a house cat, to remain healthy you must give them the chlorophyll they don't get in their food. It also helps them to expel hairballs. If your cat gnaws on your plants, this should curtail that. Purchase an organic pre-seeded container of wheat grass, or sprout wheat seeds by soaking in warm water for 24 hours, then drain and spread them on a tray that has a bottom made of window screening, in a layer no more than 1 inch thick. Keep moist. In 5 to 6 days, when you've got a mat of root place the sprouts, root mat down, in a flowerpot. Cover the roots with dirt. Water them and put them in a sunny window Watch the wheat grass grow and keep it where kitty can enjoy it.

"Test Seeds": They float if placed on surface of water before they're ripe. They sink to the bottom if they're mature enough for planting.


"Eggshell Planters": Save shells by cracking just one small portion of the end. Rinse well. While wet, poke a small drain hole in bottom end. Collect several. Use as pots for starting seedlings. Use loam. Keep in cartons for easier handling. When you transplant, crush shell.

"Eggshell Fertilizer": Makes a good houseplant fertilizer. Let egg shells stand in water for 4 days. Use to water plants.

"Soapsuds Fertilizer": If made from real, plain soap, are good for young plants, shrubs. Make double use of light by putting plants on a large-mirrored area with mirror facing window. You don't turn plants, as the mirror reflects sunlight, prevents plants from getting leggy when they stretch toward the sun.

"Grow Bags": To start seeds or young plants, and later have easy transfer to garden, cut holes in top of a bag of peat or other plant medium. Poke small holes in bottom for good drainage. Plant seeds or plants in the bag. Water. Set in warm, sunny area. When plants are ready to set out, carry the bag to the garden, transplant them by placing the bag in the ground. Cut the bag away from plants.

"Milk Carton Dividers": Up to 8 plants may be started without danger of roots intertwining. Cut off bottom of a half-gallon milk carton, 2 1/2 to 3 inches. For rest of container, cut apart the 4 sides. Cut each side into 2 rectangles the same height as the bottom planter, 2 1/2 to 3 inches. Cut a slit in the middle of each rectangle about half way up. Fit 2 rectangles together at right angles, with 1 slit fitting into the other. These dividers slip into the bottom of the carton to make 4 growing sections. To make 8 smaller planting sections, use 4 rectangles and cut them down to size.

"Inner Tube Heaters": Old inner tubes make great solar heaters for young plants, helping ward off a late frost. Place tube on ground with plant in middle. Cut a hole in tube, just large enough to accommodate a hose nozzle. Insert hose. Fill tube with water. Pinch hole closed with clothespins. The black rubber absorbs solar heat and stores the water.

"Hot Cap Anchors": For plastic jugs as hot caps, anchor them by cutting off the top and bottom and run a sharpened stick through the hollow handle. Put the jug over your plant, drive the stick into the ground.

"Window-Screen Tent": Prop 2 wooden framed window screens like a tent, creating a shady canopy for plants, vegetables. Provides easy ways to blanch celery. For more shade, drape sides of the screen with gunny snacks or other porous material. Secure frames at top.

"Germination": Water seedlings with room temp water.
"Thermos Soak": Soak seeds in warm water 24-48 hours before planting to soften seed coat and promote quicker sprouting. Put seeds in a wide-mouthed thermos with warm water. Thermos keeps water warm and the wide mouth makes seed easy to remove.

"Steep Hard Seeds": Many hard seeds benefit from soaking in strong tea overnight. The tannic acid softens the outer covering.

"Soil-less Germinating Mix": Avoid bother of pasteurising soil for seed starting by using a soil-less germinating mix consisting of equal parts milled sphagnum, perlite, vermiculite. It is free of disease organisms and seedling roots penetrate it easily. It has no nutrients, so transplant as soon as their first real leaves appear.

"Paintbrush Sowing": When using a trowel or hands to cover small seed with soil, they can get buried too deep. That slows germination. Use a paintbrush to control the amount of soil used.

"Citrus Planters": Scoop pulp from half an orange or grapefruit. Fill with soil. Plant seeds. When ready to transplant, plant citrus half and all. The rind decays and adds nutrients to soil.

"Water Heater Germinator": Put germination trays or seedling flats on top of your water heater for even bottom heat and quicker germination. If heater is wrapped in insulation, make that removable by cutting around the top. Insulation can be replaced, fastened with tape when seeds germinate.

"Fluorescent Tube Grow Lights": To start seeds or grow houseplants, the cool, white, warm tubes are as effective, cheaper and longer lasting than grow lights. Cool white are rich in light from the blue end of the light spectrum, the light seedlings need for best growth. The red light emitted by warm white tubes, encourages flowering, bright colors. Use a tube of each for a wide range of plants.

"Storage": Bag seed flats to prevent drying. Keep in clear plastic until germination occurs. Check often to be sure there's not too much moisture, as it could cause disease.

"Keep Seeds Dry": Also, at room temp, seeds like beet, cucumber, melon, mustard, tomato, will keep their germination rates for over 5 years. Seeds that keep it up to 5 years, are bean, asparagus, broccoli, Brussels sprout, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, chicory, endive, okra, pea, peppers, spinach, watermelon. To ensure dryness, keep seeds in tightly sealed jars with 1/2 cup flour or dry milk. Or use pre-packaged silica in jars to keep dry. Pharmacy uses small, tissue-wrapped packets, that you may ask them for.

"Refrigerate Cuttings": To protect them when you can't plant immediately. Store them in a plastic bag in vegetable crisper of refrigerator. Spray some water in bag with cuttings. Seal. Stays fresh for at least 1 week.

"Make-Do Sprouters": Filter strainer from old percolator, cheesecloth stretched and secured with elastic over a glass jar.

"Freezing Sprouts": Bean and seed sprouts lose crispness, but good for use in cooking.

"Drying Sprouts": In very low oven, then grind in blender or processor. Good as thickener for soups, gravies, as casserole topping, add to bread and other dishes.                            

"Fresh Greens, Sprouted Oats For Chickens & Our Animal Friends": When greens for your flock are doing poorly, treat the birds to sprouted oats. Follow the directions in the above recipe, soaking the oats for 24 hours first. After seven days, the oats will reach a length of 1 inch and be at their peak of nutritional value. Have enough trays to feed sprouts to your flock at least every other day, stacking trays to reduce the amount of water needed. Also, to keep birds in healthy greens without their eating plant to the ground, secure anchor a sturdy bottomless wire cage over prolific plants. Your flock will nip off greens that poke trough the wire, yet leave plant intact to regrow. A hanging basket with a large carrot, the top 4 inches cut off, it's center hollowed out, a toothpick pushed horizontally through the cut edge, hung top down in the sun, the hollow filled with water, in a short time has beautiful, edible leaves covering the carrot.

*To make lead and cadmium unavailable to vegetables and greens, increase organic matter in soil and keep pH above 6.5.
When fowls get ill, die, with no apparent cause, it can generally be traced to being either overcrowded, having to much pampering or too little care---all fatal faults in feeding come under one of the last two heads. If health and appearance isn't satisfactory, visit coop hours after its been shut for the night. If the air is offensive, that's it. Decrease the number of fowls and give increased ventilation. Keep the yard clean, well-drained. In 1880, my great-grandfather noted that one mustn't throw down lots of feed. They can fill their crops and hardly move from where they stand. They'll also grow fat internally, but won't put on god firm meat, useful muscle, r have stamina and good constitutions. Good feeding rather requires good space, but if the run is small, it must be made the most of by throwing the food as far as can be to make them run the whole distance as many times as possible. In a small run, where green food must be given, instead of their going out to search for it, tie up cabbage stumps and lettuces for them to pull at instead of throwing them on the ground.
3 meals daily are enough for grown fowl. Those that have range enough to let them pick up much for themselves will do well with 2 meals daily with a good supply of clean, pure water. In 1880, the different kinds of food used to feed poultry were grain of many varieties, the meal made by grinding them. Root and green vegetables, meat, either given by hand or found by themselves in the shape of worms, grubs and such. A good variety of diet. Barley, oats, wheat, buckwheat, Indian corn, Meal made of those. Potatoes, lettuces, all kinds of Change diet weekly. Barley is used as whole corn more than any other kind of food, but they won't thrive on it or any grain, without variation. Wheat is very nourishing, but rather too heating for poultry that hasn't full liberty. Buckwheat is a great change and promotes laying. Fowls like it very much when they get used to it. They sometimes overlook it due to it's dark color. Indian corn is a good occasional change. It's fault is it promotes internal fat. Their diet should not be entirely corn. Their gizzards are made for getting nutriment from corn, but they are omnivorous. Best feed them at all times partly on soft food like meal and such, and partly on corn. If 2 meals are given daily, give one of meal and other soft food and one of corn. If 3 meals are given, give one of corn and 2 of soft food generally, sometimes 2 corn and 1 soft food. Meal of different kinds is the staple material for soft food. Best is ground oats. Barley is good and they relish it. Scotch oatmeal, ground. Malt dust is nourishing also. If buying meal, it should be fresh ground, not made from bad corn. Keep in cool, dry bin. Mealy potatoes are very good in change with other food. So, bake. To feed, break into pieces and scatter far and wide. When feeding young stock, be sure food is fresh, well-made, and appetizing. Satisfy hunger at each meal. Leave time between meals for hunger to return. Never pamper appetite. If they refuse to eat, they often know best what's good for them. As they approach maturity, they eat enormously. Let them. Let them exercise as much as can. Old and young want green food. Free access to grass is best. Or tufts of grass in their runs. If tufts are too big for them to knock to pieces, remove to safe place, water, use again and again as often as grass grows. Fresh lawn cuttings may be thrown into runs and be relished. Lettuces may be given to fowl and ducks. Turnip greens are good for them. Cabbage leaves, any refuse from gardens may be given if grass, lettuce or greens aren't available. In absence of greens, boiled roots are better than no vegetable food. Animal food is also needed. That which they get themselves, worms, grubs, is best. If not available, minced cooked meat. Forcing breeding--- wheat, beans, peas, meat--- may induce fowl to lay abundantly, but won't produce lasting strong, healthy fowl. They'll seldom live out their natural term of life or produce chickens of natural strength and stamina. Warm housing and abundant feeding make hens lay early, if they don't get too fat. Meat will bring them on to lay, and buckwheat, oats fried in fat and brewer's grains. Broody hens keep to the nest eggs and just go to feed once in the early day. Requirements for "sitters" are fresh water and a very good meal of barley each time she leaves her nest. Barley is better than barley meal dough. She'll eat a good deal. Let her come on her own. Don't keep her waiting and give her plenty. Be sure other fowls don't molest her and that she returns quietly to her eggs. She needs green food also, and stones to promote digestion. Also, a good heap of dry dust in which to roll and cleanse her feathers. Otherwise she'll be infested with chicken fleas and she'll forsake the eggs. She should take a run outdoors to get insects, peck at grass. Be sure she gets back to nest in due time. Up to an hour. Don't let her stray too long or too far. Newborn chicks, after many hours hatched, want to eat. Don't interfere with mother hen. Just as soon as the chicks pop out from among her feathers, a bit of sopped bread in a cup may be placed before her. She's also hungry. She'll eat and feed her chicks. Offer her water. She'll be glad of it. Without interfering, on the day of hatching, get her off to feed at her usual time in the morning, then once in 8-12 hours is usually enough. Go in and see how the hatching progresses. Don't take her off the nest unless necessary to help. After 21 days if more eggs seem good yet unhatched, put them under her. She'll probably hatch them in the night. Take away bad eggs. When hatching is done, at once move the hen and her brood to a clean nest, free from vermin. If weather is cold, warm straw first. When they're settled, the chicks under her, place food and water before her. It may be chopped eggs, shell and all, and bread crumbs, sop, oatmeal and barley meal mixed, dry and crumbly and crushed corn, giving now as later only one thing at a time. A shallow drinking pan so the chicks won't get wet if going into it. Or, turn the pan over and constantly replenish water, making sure mother has plenty. If weather is mild and dry, the sooner they can go outdoors for gravel, the better, but at first, just for a short while. They may be put down on a greenhouse floor so the hen can roll in dust in a corner, which is good for her and the chicks. Under a shed, clean dirt mixed with small stones, is a good place for cooping her for the first 10 days or so. Later she may be put on grass in dry weather, but not before the dew leaves. Part of the day, coop her where she and her chicks can roll in dry dusty earth. Make sure she has comfortable shelter. When she's loose, she'll lead her chicks into shade or sunshine, or to warm nooks sheltered from cold winds. From the time the hen's cooped out, especially after wing feathers begin to show, feed plentifully on well varied food. Rice pudding made of rice, sharps or Indian meal, milk and baked makes excellent nourishing food.
You may add to it, eggs, chopped meat, one or both. Rice boiled, rolled in sharps or Indian meal instead of pudding, is good. Other foods are oatmeal, barley meal mixed into a dry friable mass, canary seed, crushed oats, crushed barley. These may be varied with baked potatoes, brown bread sopped in milk or water, buckwheat. To get size, meat may be given every other day. Daily they must have green food of some kind. Varying meals, sometimes an entire change, fed constantly, as often as hungry, as much as they and their mother like, leaving none to get stale, waste on ground, encouraging sparrows. When they no longer eat eagerly, stop. At first, they want a bit hourly. By degrees, they get hungry less often, until 6 meals daily is enough. Chicks hatched before natural time, before nights become mild and days sunny, before insects teem and the absence of which no meat will compensate, must have a little artificial warmth, must be fed after dark, as a fast from dark to daylight is too long. About 10 PM, put down a light and place food and water before the hen. The chicks soon get oriented, expect a good meal at that time. Do not give plenty of excellent food for the first 3 weeks and then, to some extent leave them to take their chance. They require better more nourishing food as fledgling advances. The increased rate of growth means they still need good feeding until grown completely.

Illness”: Warmth, shelter, safety from other fowl. A few days retreat, simple, nourishing food. If chicks pine and droop wings, a pill of Barbadoes aloes, the size of a pea, or pellet of rue and butter may help. Be sure no insects on bird. A dusting of flour or sulphur, provision of a dust bath, bird kept clean. Most poultry diseases may be traced to effects of chilly, damp and variable climate. The need warm shelter. "Douglas' Mixture" is grand for giving strength, stamina to old and young. Dissolve together with a little water, 1-2 lbs. sulphate of iron and 1 oz. diluted sulphuric acid. Add spring water enough to make up 2 gallons. Let stand a fortnight. Mix a tsp. of it with a pint water and give to fowls or chickens to drink, instead of water. Decoction of citrate iron mixed with water in proportion to give it a very perceptible taste of iron, is also good for strength. If mature fowl is feverish, drooping and seems to need medicine, give one Plummer's pill, a bit of Barbadoes aloes pea-sized, or 5 grains jalap in a bolus of barley meal according to strength of dose required.

"Sunflower Seed And Other Treats For Chickens & Other Bird”: The sunflower seeds are easy to grow and are a good dry weather crop. A great source of protein. Hang ripe sunflower heads within easy reach so they can peck the seeds out. Or make a pretty yard container to keep filled with sunflower seeds. Or slip the entire sunflower head into a rope plant hanger tied to a tree limb or post.  Supplement "Hunt & Peck" diet with additional insects, seeds, grains like corn, wheat, oats, and barley. Give a good feed that has 4 parts wheat, oats or barley to 1 part protein supplement. They lay in larger numbers when fed laying mash or the mash and grain as major portion of diet. Laying hen eats 90 lbs. feed a month. Give laying hens oyster shell or a small amount of calcium supplement for strong shells. If you feed them corn, give grit with it. They love kitchen scraps like vegetable peelings. Only cooked if potato. They love the green tops. Nothing with strong flavor. Give in an amount that can be eaten in 10 minutes. Never feed from a galvanized container. Keep lots of water where it won't spill and get their feet wet. Clean water every day or two.

"Goat Leftover Treats": Don't forget goats during garden harvest. They love and get much goodness from squash, pumpkin, carrot, corn, rutabaga, onion and garlic. Make them treats that have molasses in drinking water. 1 cup for every 30 to 90 gals. in winter or apple cider vinegar in their water in summer, as molasses tends to ferment in warm weather. This encourages them to drink, resulting in more milk production and better health.
*These additions to pet's drinking water are also helpful when travelling with them, as they mask the strange taste of different water. Pure peppermint oil for dogs, also. Dairy goats need all the clover, alfalfa or mixed hay they'll eat, plus available root crops like turnips, beets, parsnips and those mentioned above, or good quality silage. In summer, keep them in good pasture between milking times, plus give 1 1/2 lbs. root crops or silage and 1-2 lbs. grain daily. In winter, 2-4 lbs. alfalfa or clover hay in place of pasture. Goats on pasture usually need less grain and concentrate feeds. While pregnant, feed all the roughage (good hay) she'll eat through fall and winter, plus 1 lb. root crops and 1/2-1 lb. grain. Strong flavored feed like turnip and silage should be fed only after milking so milk doesn't take it on. Keep rock salt available and mix small amount fine salt with grain mixture. If you can't feed alfalfa or clover hay, she needs additional calcium and phosphorous supplements. Plenty of fresh water at all times.


"Feed the Birdies": Un-vegan suet is needed. Use hanging baskets made of old onion bag netting.
"Homemade Birdseed": Save the pulp and seeds from squash and other vegetables or from sunflowers and spread it thinly on a plate or tray. Leave the tray in a gas oven overnight. The pilot generates enough heat to dry the pulp, making it easy to pick out seeds. If you have a pilot-less gas oven or electric stove, dry by setting oven a lowest temp and heat for several hours. You may add cayenne pepper, as birds don't mind, but, squirrels, bears, fox, raccoon and other critter thieves sure do.